The opening of Devil’s Den just off of Washington Avenue means less crawling to the Pope and Cantina in SoPhi for us. We’ve actually been to this South Philly den of sin twice now. At exactly 6:20 PM on opening night, a fire broke out in the kitchen. Drinks continued to flow at the bar, but food service was halted. We eavesdropped on one of the owners recounting the story just last eve, as we finally got around to feasting with the Devil.
After checking out the promising pics over at Beer Lass, we were charmed by the handsome interior, which includes heavy woods, a fireplace that likely will not see use until fall, and an almost-cheesy mirror etched with a devilish logo. Kitschy beer signs propagate on the wall space, but we can deal. Pour the Spaten Lager and we feel forgiving.
Devil’s minions are more informed than a new staff is often found to be. They were able to thoroughly discuss the beer selection as though they had studied under Joe Sixpack. After sipping some of PBC’s impressive Rowhouse Red, we came to realize the overwhelming combinations of drunken direction this could go in, with 16 taps and over 100 bottles. There are wines by the glass, if you care to go that way. When summer hits, we will gladly partake in a Devil’s Margarita by the french doors that open to the sidewalk.
Perhaps more challenging was the ordering of food. We were forced to say “Satan Tips” out loud. Our server stared us down, “The sei-tan tips? Of course.” A beautifully-arranged plate of skewered tips was sent over to us, laden on a mound of black beans and cilantro risotto over a banana leaf. We were informed that it was chef Joe Turrisi’s first official order of the dish and that he had said something like “Ahhh, vegetarians.” We sent the empty platter back with our approval. Other chow you can feel more confident about munching on? The grilled bison burger and the Diablo mussels with a kick of tequila butter.
When it came time for dessert, the sin continued with an apple galette. Less-exciting options included a standard chocolate cake and something equally as forgettable. That doesn’t mean that the flaky galette did not make us reach back into our memory and compare it to a similar pastry we tried in Paris. Was it better? By the powers of caramel sauce and buttery drizzle, hells yes.
Devil’s Den is located at 11th & Ellsworth in South Philly.
I agree, I was there last night and the food, drinks, crowd and everything were fantastic.