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Americans reach for Chardonnay at the wine store more than any other varietal. And it’s not even close. Around 21% of all the wine we drink is made from the sturdy hearty goodness of that flavorful berry. Almost no one drinks Viognier because they don’t know what it is and can’t find it. Viognier is a good alternative to those who are tired of Chardonnay and need another refreshing option in the world of medium-bodied white wine. A winery in Pennsylvania (hold your gag reflex) wants to expand your mind with a pretty damn complex offering of this bastard Northern Rhone grape.

Most American Chards wear too much eye makeup and sport a lipstick color that doesn’t match anything they own. I wouldn’t touch most of them with yours. Trying to cover up defects in crappy berries and a lack of QC, American vintner’s pull out every trick to create the syrupy, super-oaked trash water we know as Chardonnay. More than a disappointment, it’s a crime against nature. The good people at Crossing Vineyards, a Bucks County winery, don’t feel it’s necessary to remove all of the soul from their wines, and this is evident in their take on Viognier.

There’s a bit of tropical fruit on the nose and a light perfume that indicates the grapes were picked pretty close to right on. Almost hidden vanilla aromas point to some time spent in oak barrels, but the vintner isn’t trying to hide any defects here. On the palate, the wine continues down its path of tropical fruit along with a zesty mineralistic quality that tingles and vibrates on your salivary glands. With a sexy roundness and weight to the backside, this juice wears Apple Bottoms on every occasion. The finish is graceful, except for a slight overly alcoholic exhale before sip number two. Viognier has notoriously high alcohol content to begin with, and it can be tricky to keep under control during fermentation. That being said, this bottle using Pennsylvania fruit is an amazing expression of an absurdly challenging grape.

Straddling that line of undrinkably sweet New Worlder’s that the U.S. buys and giving respect to traditionalism and terroir is an almost impossible task that many would fail and most would never try. The winemaker at Crossing Vineyards, Tom Carroll, Jr., is fighting the good fight and winning. He’s got a steel pair for not only growing Viognier, but Pinot as well. Keep it up, Tom.

The only problem, even with a wine made in this state, is distribution. Philadelphia’s 12th Street store is the only one with stock, but it’s worth the trip. At $16, this bottle is a wonderful vacation from the same old. And if you can’t find a bottle in the store, it’s a quick ride out to the ‘burbs as the vineyard is only 40 minutes away.
The PLCB code is 10196.

Collin Flatt is a former Beer Pong champ turned oenophile. Collin Flatt spends his tax refunds on wine. Collin Flatt has his Bachelor’s Degree in drinking and is getting his Master’s Degree in winemaking. Collin Flatt is working on an Arctice Splash Cuvee. Collin Flatt writes about wine for Phoodie.info.

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