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Finding a legit Burgundy for under $30 is like stumbling onto a case of Crystal Pepsi in your cousin’s garage. It’s worth a double-, maybe triple-take that requires closer inspection. Frankly, it’s goddamned frightening and is surely of questionable drinkability. Shortly thereafter, the crispness of reality reminds me we live in the Bizarro World of Liquor. It IS possible to find a REAL BURGUNDY for under 30 bills because that kind of screwup is just how the PLCB rolls, yo. So here we are. If you like it, I love it.
 
Your varietally correct Burg Pinot is a delicate flower with the stink of mushrooms and cherries, often leading you to aromatic barnyard funk. The body is light and delicate with the flavor of cherries and an acidic ripeness reminiscent of the blueberry. Her finish is quite smooth and not gripping or intrusive. Often a complex mess, it’s the best expression of Pinot in the world. This bottle flipped the script and tells us shit we didn’t know we wanted to hear: Pinot can kick. Your. Ass.
 
Popping the cork on this Faiveley is unleashing a madman. That angular, wispy lady you see walking quickly to work every day in her flower print skirt just ran by in a sports bra, brandishing chiseled abs like a cobblestone street. She likes it on top.
 
The deep ruby color is your first inkling something is different. Pinot is never this dense, never this opulent. The aromas are fruit forward, pushing black fruit up front and a brooding fennel in the background. There’s nowhere for the terroir to find any daylight, the fruit is THAT ripe.

The flavors explode into black cherry and currants with a little dirty earth for good measure. Raw muscular power supplants Pinot grace. The body is surprisingly light for the density of the juice, which is an absolute pleasure. The rub here is definitely the tannins, which are still connect-the-dots and need some time to integrate. That being said, this bottle is a stunner. You don’t have to lay it down, it’s ready to mingle.

The reason this bottle is so backwards from normal Burgundy is that 2003 was a freakishly hot year. It made early superripe grapes that didn’t require much effort during vinification. Even a shithouse producer like Faiveley couldn’t mess up the fruit. They left it alone, which was the smartest move they could possibly make. What you see in this bottle is a bit of a carnival sideshow, but worth the price of admission. Classicists might not find the bottle so much fun and more of a novelty, but at this price you need to make that mistake.

A little lesson about Burgundy labels is in order. The bottle says ‘Mercurey Clos des Myglands’. You’ll see Faiveley on the bottom and is the producer of the bottle. In this region, the name of the town is listed first (Murcurey) and the Vineyard mentioned right afterwards (Clos des Myglands). The labeling of 1er Cru (Premier Cru) means this wine is right below the best-of the best Grand Cru’s. Often 1er Cru will be as good if not better than Grand Cru. Like most things in life, these early classifications were based on who had the most cash money. You’ll find more 1er Cru’s working harder to become Grand Cru’s, who sometimes mail it in based on their status. What this all means is you are getting an amazing bottle of wine for $23. I suggest letting her kick your ass and thanking her for it later.

This little jewel is currently part of the Chairman’s Selection and is listed all over the suburbs, as well as making an appearance in the 12th Street and Columbus Circle stores. There’s not a ton of it everywhere, but it will be on a display rack and not in the French/Burgundy section. The PLCB Code is 019026.

Collin Flatt is a former Beer Pong champ turned oenophile. Collin Flatt spends his tax refunds on wine. Collin Flatt has his Bachelor’s Degree in drinking and is getting his Master’s Degree in winemaking. Collin Flatt is working on an Arctice Splash Cuvee. Collin Flatt writes about wine for Phoodie.info.

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