Phoodie Wine Nerd Collin Flatt finds another Gem Of Stupid Pricing in the PLCB stacks. This time, it’s an Italian Nebbiolo lovefest for your gamiest meats.

My interest/obsession with wine began when I was slinging drinks in the Trastevere neighborhood of Rome. I was there to learn art history like a good student, but ended up getting an education in alcohol. It’s what we all did. For some of us, it was unbridled-triple-dip-blackout territory on all fronts.

Wading through the Heineken, Grappa, and All Night Bakeries can lead one to the Nebbiolo grape. Her loveliness is what makes the finest Italian wines. We happen to have a very affordably priced sweetheart in our midst right now that goes by the name Travaglini Gattinara Tre Vigne. 1998 was a great year in Piedmont. With 10 years of bottle age added to the stellar vintage, this wine is quite the find. Our ‘friends’ at the PLCB wildly underpriced this little lady. She’s going for $35-50 around the U.S., and we have it for $19.

If you open a Gattinara too early, she will slap you around and force you to break up over the phone. If you let her mature a bit, she’s nothing short of liquid worth marrying.  She’s a trophy, it’s true. She looks amazing in a sundress and feeds you multiple courses at each meal, because that’s what was taught. She’s traditional, and her soft features keep your eyes focused on her best qualities. We’ve been together awhile, but it hasn’t gotten stale. I’m pretty sure we’re in love.

The nose of the juice is quintessential leather and tar you get with most Nebbiolo wines. An aroma of funky barnyard floor is noticeable, which sounds awful, but really pushes the complexity of the experience. The wash is dark cherries with a grilled peppercorn framing the whole glass. Her spiciness is a little hidden here, but you know she’s been around the block. There’s a nice truffle-y highlight as it goes into the finish, which is nicely integrated with tannins that have mellowed over time. It’s an elegant drink, and quite versatile. This wine will enhance gamey meats like lamb, and pungent blue cheeses. She’s not heavy at all, balanced for food and romantic notion.

The rub here is the age of our Gattinara. 1998 was stupendous, to be sure, and giving this wine time is just what it needs. But, considering it was probably improperly stored by the state, purchasing this wine can be a crapshoot. I have purchased 4 bottles and all have been fine, but another colleague got a tired bottle. So buy 2, just to be sure.

We’ve got a mountain of these bottles in our system right now. They are in the Chairman’s Selection, but not advertised as such.  You will find these bottles in their own display, and are oddly shaped. Can’t miss it. I have seen them at 12th Street, but they’re also listed at most premium stores through the city and suburbs. The PLCB Code is 23557.

–Collin Flatt

Collin Flatt is a former Beer Pong champ turned oenophile. Collin Flatt spends his tax refunds on wine. Collin Flatt has his Bachelor’s Degree in drinking and is getting his Master’s Degree in winemaking. Collin Flatt is working on an Arctic Splash Cuvee. Collin Flatt writes about wine for Phoodie.info.

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