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Collin Flatt’s obsessions with bone marrow, Mexican food, Professional Wrestling, Jose Garces, and Karaoke intersect at 40th and Chestnut St. in the form of monolithic Distrito. Full review and lots of pictures after the jump.

I love eating weird shit. It’s that simple. Look for the nastiest, most unattractive dish on any menu and give it a go. You’ll often get a chef’s best efforts when you accept his challenge. Jose Garces’ latest foodgasm gives you all the technicolor rawness you can handle: Marrow served in-bone, obviously Octopus Ceviche sucker-side-up, and rare Veal Cheek smiling broadly across a soft shell tortilla. So why hide it behind a sickeningly sweet pinkish hue?

Garces made Distrito his most affordable spot without skimping on high-quality ingredients or creative presentation. God is in the details, Jose is in the food. As with all of his menus, they are broken out a la carte in subsections: Tacos, Sopas, Ceviches, Moles, etc. Nothing is more expensive than $12 for any plate, and the more interesting dishes are usually economical. My cheek tacos were $8, whereas the Kobe rang it at $12. Eat weird, save money.

The beautiful Octopus Ceviche presentation came out in a margarita low-ball glass, those little sucker-filled legs wading in a shallow mixture of peppercress, lime, and serrano chiles. One tentacle was turned to face us, displaying the cephalopod’s most distinguishing chracteristic. Nowhere to hide from who you are, little buddy. The chilly flesh was tangy and acidic, and didn’t suffer from rubbery consistency. Al dente flesh snaps against your teeth’s enamel. The background warmth of the chiles appeared a few seconds after the first bite, like a smooth finish from a great wine. Lingering as a complex layer, not a dominant force. As good a ceviche as I have had in Philadelphia.

Our Hamachi Taco arrived next and was the evening’s lowlight. Jose’s past work at El Vez is quite evident in his taco presentation. Served on long white plates (in this case, sectionalized) laid open exposing the food elements to the diner. Pink pickled cabbage sat atop something akin to a fishstick in appearance and flavor. The fishiness of the meat was offputting, as chipotle remoulade and lime begged for something lighter than deep fried protein. The sweet bite of red cabbage was unique, but couldn’t save the dish from a wacky flavor/texture profile clash.

The almost dirtygood Veal Cheek tacos came next, and were dripping with Mexicanity. The sauce was kept in check by the shiny smooth circle of tortilla underneath until it was folded over and chomped through. The left behind contents spilled on your hands and plate, leaving you to lick the rest from your fingers. It was wonderful. The salsa verde was mixed with a smoky juice that allowed the protein to shine through, not hiding it’s unique flavor.

My favorite dish of the night was the Tuetano, Bone Marrow served in its home, sizzling and bubbling right out of the plate. Neatly tied tortillas leaned against the blazing hot calcium-based cavern towering over ramekins of bacon marmalade, cilantro, white onion, and jalapenos. Build Your Own Adventure. The only downside was removing the marrow from the bone, as it’s too hot to touch. I had to use my napkin to hold the bone while I dug out the filling all over my plate. Once there, the marmalade and onions fought over who would go on top. A $7 plate you can’t find anywhere else in the city.

Mole plates are served over rice at Distrito, in a precious little covered sizzler. Your server will do the big reveal at your table, but the effort is worth it. A memorable touch. I got the Mole Verde, a tasty take on Pork Belly. Sitting atop a mild salsa verde, you can taste every millimeter of fatty goodness and salty sinew. Crispy on the edges and cooked medium well, there was no chewiness to be found. The rice, while an afterthought, was on the money. Falling apart fluffily and retaining consistency even with fatty meat and salsa trying to break it’s will. Pine nuts and pumpkin seeds added crunch and texture to a dish that was already well done and pushed a notch above.

The Queso Fundido was home to ducky goodness, poblano chile rajas, and four monster cheeses. Served like a baked lasagna, the greasiness of the cheese and oily nature of duck could have been a trainwreck. While slightly heavy handed with the amount of cheese, the dish was still a welcome addition to our meal. The pacing might have been a little off as our fish dish came next and we were wiping a sheen of oil from our hands so we could grab our utensils.

The Huachinango, or Red Snapper, was served as a main dish but wasn’t really larger than any others we ordered except in price. Still, only $12 for a piece of flesh that was cooked to perfection, with a spicy crunchfilled skin and flaky meat that fell apart. The chihuahua cheese foam struck a wonderful balance with the dish, adding richness that was missing, but not lacking. 

The drink menu was robust, with too many Tequilas to count. The trendy drinks were passable, but most were made with top shelf liquor that sent the price through the roof. I had a strawberry margarita that tasted of almost no strawberry until it melted 10 minutes later. The grapefruit soda and tequila concoction was quite good, as they left the soda bottle for you to pour at your own pace, makebelieve bartender.

Our service was almost perfect, and we never felt that we had TOO much attention. Food runners worked well with their server partners, and the bus boy timing was impeccable. An empty plate never lasted more than a few seconds, but no one was running into one another. Our water glasses seemed bottomless, even though I must have cameled through 5 glasses.

The entire experience was not perfect, though. Garces’ restaurants have always been about the food, and Distrito is no different. Amada and Tinto don’t paint the concept on the walls. Distrito has literally done just that. You can’t shake the feeling you walked in on a threeway between Ikea, Target, and a Crayola box.

Getting slapped in the face by an unnecessary saloon door is not how one wants to start a meal. I was thisclose to that happening, but my dining companion took the brunt. The space is monolithic, cavernous, and any other word you can use to describe a place that is just too big. Parc navigated this issue well by subtly sectioning off areas with the design, and Distrito could have used some of that aesthetic in table layout. I expect this kind of over-the-top craziness from a Starr joint, but not Garces. I understand the concept of the restaurant, but could do without the plastic authenticity. The Secret Karaoke Room is totally badass, and open for rent if you can snag it.

That being said, the food and service were fantastic, with really inventive and challenging dishes. Execution was perfect for the most part, and the price is right on. For 7 dishes and 2 drinks, our bill was $90. I was a little skeptical that Sr. Garces could pull off an affordable Mexican restaurant in a town full of cheapmexoeats, but I won’t make that mistake again. As long as Jose keeps surprising me with new dishes and reimagined food like this, he can paint the walls whatever damn color he wants. 

–Collin Flatt