Collin Flatt visits the second oldest BYOB in the city and finds out how they keep on keepin’ on. Pics and words after the jump.

If you haven’t seen the movie Big Night and yearn to do so, you need not trek to TLA, but to 20th and Sansom. You’ll find the second oldest BYO in town and the Sansone Brothers serving up classic Italian fare with wide-armed hugs and big kisses. For David and Steve it’s not a front, they really do know everyone. But that’s what happens when you keep the same chef, the same frontman, the same location for a staggering 12 years.

Consistency is a lost art in the what-have-you-done-for-me-lately Fickledelphia Food Nation. Keeping dishes simple and tasty appears to be a shrewd move, as competitors have come and gone while these two have vested repeat customers and friends. I count myself among them.

‘This guy here, this guy, I remember when he got back from Italy and stopped by for the first time. I knew he’d be around’, David remarks towards me while talking to Steve. He remembered. I mangle my sesame seed bread basket with olive oil and roasted garlic, while Steve asks the couple behind me how their 2nd baby is doing. We all feel special.

The food is straightforward fare, highlighting pasta and veal platings. Bruschetta with tapanades, shellfish aplenty. When you find a dish that works, often times you’ll return to a horrible second performance. A restaurant needs repeat business, not rubberneckers. Consistency is key.

I’m privvied to some new dishes that will appear on the fall menu, most will be specials. A Gorgonzola Gnocchi appetizer arrives in a baking dish, swimming with cheesy decadence and the essence of white truffle. The balance here is pretty amazing. A gorgonzola sauce can browbeat anything in a streetfight, but I find the fading note of truffle to linger on my palate for the entire experience. The gnocchi are handmade potato pillows that melt right into the plate, providing a starchy canvas that aromatics permeate to the finish. Portion is perfect if you’re not American.

Our other starter plate was the Angliotti, which ended up being my favorite dish of the night. Tiny squares of pasta, packed with fig and pear slices, finished with sage butter. The starch was cooked al dente and supported the softer innards, a refreshing twist. The pear sweetness was mellowed by the sage butter which slowly trickled across my tougue. Again, balance is key here, this requires severe attention to detail. Presentation is always simple, white plate, white tablecloth. I’d eat this by the bowlful.

The only misstep of the night was the Mushroom Ravioli, which had a little too much grit in the filling, and not enough other flavors to keep me interested. The dish was a not a complete failure, it just had hefty competition after the Angliotti crossed my eyes and teased my palate. The pasta is always cooked perfectly, a skill learned by the Sansone brothers during their stint at La Famiglia.

The Veal in Chianti Sauce was well executed, as Steve designs excellent sauces and superb finishes. The protein was pan fried and tossed in a hearty red wine and acid based gravy, smothered in Mushrooms A La Casa. The smoky, rustic flavors were such good friends with the Sangiovese/Barbera blend I brought along to join the festivites. The vegetables spent minimal time over heat, and were very fresh. Another solid dish that I can get six months from now and will be just as enjoyable.

How a restaurant has flown under the radar for 12 years is beyond me, and even a difficult location hasn’t hampered the success of this charming BYO. The food is very good, and quite affordable as the bill rang in around $65 dollars for four dishes and no corkage. No, the Sansone’s aren’t re-inventing the wheel at their destination, but you’ll find it isn’t necessary.

As I paid my bill and shook hands/hugged the proprietor, the door rattles open and David bellows, ‘It’s been too long my friend!’ to the family walking in the door. I imagine more than 3 months passing without visiting Porcini makes that a truthful sentiment.

 – Collin Flatt