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Pub And Kitchen: Pabbit Perfection

We’re speechless. The Windsor Burger at Pub and Kitchen is the best beefpattyexcursion in the city. We said it. We stand by it. There can be only one, and on this point let there be no debate. We’ve already eaten three and they’ve only been open a week or so. We’re disgusted with ourselves. We used to go out and be social with our friends, but all of that is over now. We hang out at 20th and Lombard Street, you can find us there. We’ve seen Arthur from Foobooz here with us quite often. We’re going halfsies on a room above the restaurant. The myth surrounding the tastiness of this dish can only be matched by the origin of the ‘Pabbit’ creature that visually represents the establishment.

Chef Johnny Mac starts with slaughtered-ordered-cryovacced-and-shipped-same-day Painted Hills Natural Beef, and makes magic. He says he’s been perfecting this burger since leaving SnackBar, and uses percentages when creating his patties. The consistency of the meat is the best we’ve ever experienced: fluffy yet dense without crumbling under the pressure of being exquisite. The portion is perfection. Tall enough, strong enough, sans oafishness. The lightly butterkissed onion roll is a great vehicle, the homemade maple bacon and Brit Cheddar are worthy sidekicks to the King. Top it off with the Best Tomato Slice We’ve Had This Summer and crispy greens, or go au natural and bench ‘em. We’ve sampled the other contenders in this category around town. All of them. We don’t need to mention any other names here, because it would downplay the greatness before us.

A side note:  We’d be remiss for not mentioning the Malt Vinegar Crisps that we ordered with our meal, a $3 triumph of potato goodness. One sensuous crunch and then a melting sensation right down your gullet.

Bravo, Johnny Mac, and thank you.

Pub and Kitchen is located at 1946 Lombard St. (215) 545-0350

5 Responses to “Pub And Kitchen: Pabbit Perfection”


  1. 1 caroline Sep 19th, 2008 at 6:39 pm

    you guys. stop it. my mouth is watering. i am going there tonight just because of this post. and I think I am going to order your exact order.

  2. 2 Leon Sep 23rd, 2008 at 6:51 pm

    Didn’t have the burger but had loads of fun at the establishment with the Pabbit. Loved’em so much, we actually kidnapped one.

  3. 3 C. the Impaler Oct 11th, 2008 at 12:54 pm

    I’m sorry, this was the most disappointing $12 burger I’ve had in this city. Royal, Misconducts, Fergie’s, heck even the pucks on a Five Guys had more flavor than what I got served last night. I was really looking forward to this last night while watching the game, maybe the kitchen was distracted, but the whole mouth experience was just bland. I’d be willing to overlook that my medium rare was more rare than medium rare, though with a good seared outside. My partner had the much lauded Fish and Chips, and those too were a limp let down. Again, maybe game night was an off night. I may give this place one more chance, otherwise I may write off the whole Philly foodblog mafia as just a bunch of mouthpieces for rest-biz PR hype crews.

    The Pabbit is cute, the beer ain’t bad, but I found myself envying a friend who met up with us at Tangier and got the french dip. I’m trying to cut down on my meat consumption, and that underwhelming quarter pound blew my quota for the week.

  4. 4 CEF Oct 11th, 2008 at 1:41 pm

    Cheese,

    I am sorry you had a bad experience at PnK. I will say that my love for the burger and post that followed had nothing to do with the ‘hype machine’ as you put it. They are not one of our advertisers, and I wrote that post after eating 3, count ‘em, 3 burgers in one week before their offical opening. I know, quite disgusting. I must be transparent and say I loved JMac’s work at Snackbar, but was a tad skeptical when he decided to throw his hat into the Gastropub ring. Didn’t know if he could pull it off.

    Also, Rick Nichols wrote the piece on the Fish and Chips, not a member of the ‘foodblog mafia’, and found a special plate for himself. I have not tried the dish.

    I am glad you’re willing to chalk this gaffe up to an off night, as it can happen to even the best of the best, but I implore you to give Johnny Mac and his Windsor Burger another shot. I take my burgers seriously, sir. And I would never want to steer anyone wrong.

  5. 5 C. the Impaler Oct 13th, 2008 at 9:40 pm

    Like I said, CEF, I think I’m going to try it again. Maybe I’ll order it up to medium, since maybe the seasoning/flavor got lost in the rareness. My “integrity attack” on you was half-jest. I do believe you honestly like the thing, which is why I was so surprised when I took a big bite and got … nothing. Again, it was Friday night, and Game 2, so the kitchen might have been a little weird. When my meat quota opens up again, I’ll give it another shot.

    p.s. I’ve actually followed your wine reviews pretty faithfully and my more wine literate spouse has been impressed with all your picks.

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