Most Americans never give a rats ass about food and wine pairing during the 364 days of the year that aren’t Thanksgiving. Yet they sweat such a task during a culinary holiday that blends every possible flavor profile together, rendering most choices a gamble at best.
The softballs are always the same: Zinfandel. Off-Dry Riesling. Even wine and food critics mail it in, suggesting the ‘tried and true’, which really aren’t as true as they are boring. Go different this year. I’m all about creativity. Let’s get at it.
Pascual Toso Merlot Maipu Vineyard – $8.99
This will be your replacement for Zinfandel when dealing with the bird. Any old Merlot will NOT work, as most are oaked with monstrous tannic structure. Sr. Toso is an old-worlder at heart, going with neutral oak fermentation. This process leaves behind opulent fruit flavors of plum and cherries without the beating of vanilla and butterscotch across your mouth. A little hint of bell pepper and brioche finish this off really nicely. Don’t hate on Merlot because Paul Giamatti’s character was an idiot and didn’t realize his prized ’61 Cheval Blanc was Merlot-based. It was a nerd joke that went too far and caused the sales of a great varietal to plummet 30%. The PLCB Code is 28740
Rolf Binder Viognier Hovah 2006 – $12.99
A very versatile grape that never gets its due, Viognier should replace your Chardonnay this year. Exposed lightly to new French Oak, The Hovah has the body to deal with heavy dressings, but adds its own spiciness that Chards lack. After a short amount of time in the wood, the juice is transported back into the steel tank to balance everything out. Aromas of roses and ripe peach drive the underlying perfumes that never stick to your tongue like so many oaked beasts will. But beware, bad Viognier is horrible and flabby. Get the Hovah. The PLCB Code is 28121.
Edmunds St. John Wylie-Fenaughty Syrah 2003 – $14.99
Steve Edmunds is one of the premier Rhone varietal winemakers in the U.S., and his juice often finds its way onto our shelves even though it’s very limited. He is a classicist, allowing the Syrah to stink of cigar, forest floor, and roasted meats while keeping a medium body. A good pairing partner with game birds and the turkey itself, this Syrah is affordable and very high quality. Remember when buying Syrah to stick to the Central Coast of California (San Luis Obispo, Santa Ynez, Santa Barbara, Paso Robles) or you’ll end up with a big fruit, high-alcoholed monster. His other wine in the system is the Shell and Bone ’03, also a big winner. The PLCB Code is 14804.
Cristalino Cava Brut NV – $10.99
Bubbly during a festive dinner should be an easy pick, but which is good for what? Cristalino goes through the methode de Champenoise, with really solid fruit. In other words: real champagne without the AOC label. It’ll be dry but lush, and the best $11 you could spend on a sparkler. Drink this prior to or after the meal. Veggies, she’s you’re best friend next Thursday. The PLCB code is 06501.
Cascinetta Moscato D’ Asti – $13.99
This is your curveball in response to Riesling. Often seen as a dessert wine, Moscato D’Asti is a great representation of ancient Italian wine prior to modern techniques. Sweet and big-butted, this wine has light sparkle to add a little something to the structure. I wouldn’t drink too much of it, not because of alcohol content, but mild sugar shock. Don’t scoff before you tip a little out, but make sure you’re pairing with starchy salts and not drinking by its lonesome. The PLCB Code is 06185.
Lastly, if you’re deep frying your turkey, don’t burn down the house and avoid wine. Beer, Beer, Beer! I will be toting a 6er of Sly Fox Pikeland Pils to the annual Thanksgiving Day Orphans Potluck next week. Gobble.Â
Don’t hold your breath on Viognier becoming the new chardonnay. I was talking to a sommelier this summer in Toronto, and he suggested the Viognier; I tried it, found it good. “How come this doesn’t do better?” I asked him. “Oh, it’s a great white,” he says, “and it comes at a good price. But we’ve been saying it’s going to be the next big wine for years now, and it just doesn’t happen.”
“Why not?” I ask. He sighed — without sounding affected — and said, defeated: “Because no one in North America is sure how to pronounce it, and if they can’t say it, they won’t order it.”
Lew,
I totally agree. Viognier will never get proper due, but I like people having that option and taking the leap. It can be a secret weapon..and a more affordable one at that. But sadly, yes, what ‘V’ also has against it is that outside Condrieu, NO ONE ever looks to it in the same life-affirming way they do Chard.
I love me good Chard for sure…but when people don’t see Viognier listed as top wines in rags like the Spectator or get props from assho-, I mean critics like Parker, they’ll never go for it. Look at the recent run on Rhone wines in general. Some of the most beautiful top producer old vine stuff could be had for $50!!! Then WS lists Clos Des Papes as wine of the year and you can’t score anything for uner $150.
Oh well, more for us until someone realizes there’s good things happening with Viognier.