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Collin Flatt takes a stroll towards the Mexas border and finds flavor that’s as subtle as a brawlin’ drunk gaucho. El Camino Real gives us the horns in a big way.

Finding the proprietor of a restaurant on opening weekend calmly sipping coffee with friends is an odd sight. But that’s exactly what Owen Kamihira was doing when I crossed the threshold of his latest effort on Liberties Walk. Instead of barking at chefs and waitstaff, he scanned the packed dining room with a quiet smile. He trusts his crew. Anyone who has met Kamihira knows that panic and pressure aren’t in his vocabulary, as his trademark locks are the only part of him that is slightly out-of-control.

Before being a restaurateur, Kamihira was an accomplished artist and carpenter. Already known for other eatery showpieces, most notably, the giant Buddha at Buddakan, and the olives that adorn The Continental restaurants, he designed the interior of El Camino Real to look like the cowboy bar he always wanted. Wood harvested from a local covered bridge in Lancaster County supplied the materials for his bar and tables, and Kamihira even went as far as making his own blades for the ceiling fans from the very same wood. Detail oriented.

Chef Jen Zavala has designed a menu offering the best from both sides of the border. Having spent time at Silk City and Amada, she’s not new to the Philly scene. But she’s about to become a foodie superstar here with the plates dropping at ECR.

We started with the Jalapeno Poppers, which while sounding pedestrian, were anything but. Using fresh jalapenos makes the burn very big, and the creamy cheese blend surrounding the blazer was decadent and complex. The accompanying apricot chutney was a vision of sweetness and texture, that was perfectly balanced with the immense heat of the pepper. A real highlight of the meal.

The Mac and Cheese was next, a strong recommendation from our server. Being neighbors with the current Mac and Cheese champ, A Full Plate Cafe, will help fuel the debate of which is better. Lines have been drawn, borders will be crossed. The presentation was precious, a little black kettle with the bubbling cheese rising up through the jalapeno bread crumb crust. A miniature night out on the range in the middle of your table. The cheese itself was a mystery of many flavors and smokiness driving through each bite. Delicious.

The much-ballyhooed Wagyu Brisket lives up to the hype and is sidesaddled with two brilliant renditions of barbecue sauce. Both are deep and flavorful, tones of stonefruit in the sweet sauce, and chocolate and smoke in the other. A nice string of acidity is present in both dips and really accentuates the flavors of everything on the plate. As it is in Texas, no sauces are ever poured onto the meat, they always arrive on the side. Have it your way. The beef was very fatty and tender, and the juices held onto the smokiness from the grill even after being drenched in sauce.

The Beef Back Ribs were dry-rubbed and charred to perfection. The only challenge I had was with the presentation. They needed a sharp knife and didn’t come with one, and there was no place to toss the bones. Wetnaps needed to be requested and didn’t come with the plate. Yes, these are small details usually reserved for crappy BBQ chains, but they are necessary when you’re digging in hands first. Otherwise, a great rib offering with huge taste. A side dish of potato squash hash was tasty and had great snap and texture.

The Enchiladas had big flavor and burn in the chile sauce, and was topped with a neatly fried egg. Once the yolk was broken, the mellowness of the egg and the acid in the chile sauce were a great duet. The Gringo Burrito had serious heft and was surrounded by Chef Zavala’s Momma’s tortilla recipe. High quality ingredients in great compositional balance created a strong fill that was never too veggie or meat heavy. I didn’t get to take on the Lengua (tongue) or the Tripitas (tripe), but just having them on the menu means Zavala wants to challenge her adventurous diners.

Fear not, vegetarians, as Zavala has not forgotten you. Cactus, Veggie Black Beans, Veggie Wings, and Seitan all grace the meatheavy menu. Ponches, Gorditas, and Tostadas come veggie but you can add shrimp, chicken, or steak to any of those plates, too. Also of note: Kumihira won the Veggie Entry in the Northern Liberties Rib Cook Off this summer. Trust the man will take care of you.

For dessert, the Pecan Pie was a sure winner. Soft and dense, the texture was never cloying and thick as Pecan Pie can get if done poorly. Topped with Sweet Potato Ice Cream, the member of our dining troupe that hailed from the south was tickled with delight. A great finish to a great meal.

Nothing is brighter than Mexico, or bigger than Texas. El Camino Real is all about big and bright flavors. There’s no jabbing or stick-and-move, only body blows and uppercuts. So many chefs and restaurateurs are going for complexity and subtlety, but Kamihira and Zavala are going big guns blazing like an action movie. There’s a lot of depth on the roster, but they know that not every new restaurant has to be a challenge. Not every restaurant has to drain your wallet, either. The meal, including drinks, averaged to $30-$35 per person before tip. A steal.

El Camino Real was a long time coming, but well worth the wait. Kumihira and Zavala have filled the monstrous void of a high-end Texas BBQ offering in Philadelphia. The Mexican side of the menu is high-quality, but has a lot more competition with the glut of Mexojoints that have opened recently. But with a very strong showing in the early stages, I see no reason why El Camino Real can’t make a name for itself as a Mexican joint, too.

I know I will be going back for the tastebud explosion and ass-kicking a lot in the future months, as they are going to be serving lunch and brunch shortly. Hurry and grab a seat now before the word gets out, as I surely won’t be the only person lining up for Zavala’s punch in the mouth.

El Camino Real, 1040 N. 2nd St. (215) 925-1110