So, we recently sat down and lamented our lack of a true soup auteur in the city limits. There are definitely good bowls to be had in various spots around town, but we never felt anyone suffered for their liquid wares. That all changed after a Recession Lunch (2 courses for $16) at Rouge. We found our new Soup-er Friend, Chef Matthew Zagorski. Known for its top-notch burger and cougar den confines, we now put the establishment in the running for best damned lunch in the 215.
‘I pride myself on the work I put into my soup, and I like to think it shows’, the 28-year-old Zagorski told us during our time with the Bowl Of Happiness. He got his start at the then Neil Stein-owned Striped Bass at the tender age of 17, worked his way through Lacroix’s kitchen, and found himself the Sous Chef, and now Exec Chef at Rouge for the past 5 years. We’ll be honest. The vibe and reputation of the establishment didn’t invite us in too often, but owners Maggie and Rob Wasserman are evolving the image of Rouge to compete with the best of the best.
The liquidtasty in question was an Organic Squash Soup with Parsley and Olive Oil, which sounds simple enough, but had an absolutely perfect consistency and complex flavors. We also sampled the Cauliflower Soup with Allspice Sour Cream, and had a hard time choosing which was the best between the two. But there must always be a winner, so Squash gets the nod. The soup offering changes daily, but you really can’t go wrong.
Other plates we found truly impressive were the Smoked Salmon BLT, which was light and balanced, with a toasted pumpernickel cap and horseradish. The Roasted Pork came out mid-rare, which was so delightfully juicy and sitting stop Haricot Verts and a Squash Puree. Fluffy line-caught Fluke with caramelized cauliflower and sweet vermouth sauce was another homerun for the chef who has flown under the radar for far too long.
Stop by Rouge for a great recession deal, and a glimpse of some truly inspired dishes that surprised us. So yes, soup for you. Soup for all of us.
Rouge, 205 S. 18th St. (215) 732-6622
Hey Matt, Geoff told me about your articles, read them all and will be heading downtown w/ the girls to try out some of your new creations. Keep up the wonderful, yummy, dishes.