Collin Flatt travels to South Philly and finds some serious competition for the city’s best sushi joints. Going deeper than raw fish and sticky rice, inventive dishes and twists on classic plates are on the menu at Izumi.

I spend a lot of time at the P.O.P.E. Truthfully, too much for my own good. A quick ride down the Orange Line drops me at Tasker/Morris, which is a three block walk to my favorite craft beer watering hole. Along the path that connects the subway to Beer Heaven lies Izumi, heretofor known as Sushi Heaven. I beg the Raw Fish Gods for leniency and forgiveness since until recently, I marveled at the facade and interior of Izumi from the outside only.

The space is truly beautiful. Hightop shiny black tables with wood accents of deep crimson in a dimly lit room makes a very cozy partner with Nigori Sake, the sweet and milky rendition of rice liquor. A wall fountain frames the right side of the dining room, leading directly to the sushi bar which dances with deep neon that slowly transitions along the cool colors of the spectrum.

As trendy as the decor appears, the plates are classic Japanese offerings enhanced by the simple twists Chef Corey Baver applies to each dish. God is in the details: A homemade soy sauce might not seem like much, but one slide through a ramekin filled with this liquid joy will spoil you for life.

With fish flown in from Japan each day, the best of the best is all you can expect. The prices aren’t recession chic, but for Morimoto-quality plates, which they are, you’re getting a deep discount. Also, as a BYOB without corkage, you can drink ’til you’re silly without the liquor charge killing your buzz when the check drops. But I suggest staying stone sober for the entirety of the meal, or you might miss a truly memorable experience.

The Seared Scallop seems to be a Philly favorite right now, as every menu features the little guy in some fashion. Baver‘s version is up there with my other favorite in the city served at Little Fish. Where Little Fish succeeds on its simplicity, Izumi’s incarnation is just as pleasing with the delicate hand that applies luxury ingredients. Arriving on a wasabi spiced crepe, the little mollusk is lovingly touched with a cashew herb butter, and mingles with buffalo mozzarella. The choice of buffalo milk here is quite ingenious, since the consistency is less stringy and has no real heft continuing the theme of delicacy. The scallop is fresh and sweet on the tongue and doesn’t suffer from fishy aromatics, while the other elements framing the bivalve never overpower the star of the show. Even the mushroom acoutrement has spent time mixing with the homemade soy and provides a subtle kiss to a veggie that already sports a lot of earthy quality.

The specialty rolls are also divine, with my favorite being the Remy Roll. Expertly constructed delicate pieces of eel and whitefish, touched with scallions, crabmeat, and an almost fluffy eel sauce that adds smoke to your palate before you take a bite. The tanslucent strips of shaved bonito flake are beautiful to the eye and melt in your mouth. The seaweed wrap was also slightly tempura battered and fried before hugging its filling, creating a unique light crunch I had yet to experience in sushi. Most tempura rolls batter the meat, here the opposite is true. Another detail, twist, and brilliant move from a brilliant chef.

Sadly, they were out of Toro when I visited, but the Striped Bass sashimi I was recommended was a worthy substitute. Cut so close to the skin that the striping was still showing in the flesh, the Bass was powerful and strong and would’ve done well against the Toro in an arm wrestling match. A perfect complimenting version to what I had ordered in the first place. As a wine connoisseur who is often asked to recommend a bottle that’s akin to another, I had never before pondered the same need in a sushi house. I was quite spoiled and will never settle for less going forward.

Izumi is really a place for the old school and new school sushi fans. With absurd attention to detail and great service, the experience was great from top to bottom. You truly get what you pay for in this South Philly outpost, and I will never walk by their doors on the way to the P.O.P.E. without considering trading in a couple craft beers for that scallop. With the northern reaches of the Passyunk area getting so much love in recent years between Cantina and James, it’s good to know that a single block a little further south can satiate my need for a Founder’s Backwoods Bastard and that dreamlike Remy Roll just a hop, skip, and jump from Tasker/Morris.

Izumi is located on 1601 E. Passyunk Ave. (215) 271-1222