That which you see above is the best thing Collin Flatt has eaten all year. After the jump, find out where and what it actually is. Follow along after the jump on this journey to South Philly for a truly decadent and special dish.
Much has been written about how great the new French bistro Bibou is, garnering praise from good buddy David Snyder and hefty word of mouth around wine circles in town. But what these folks failed to mention was that one of the plates I might find within those walls was Fried Pigs feet STUFFED with Foie Gras. If there ever was a dish that truly represents my soul, this is it. My penchance for organ meat is truly an obsession now, something that might require me to be on medication if I’m not careful. Chef Pierre Calmels at Bibou is not helping break me of my habit.
I tried the much ballyhooed Tripe dish, which was spectacular, and I enjoyed the Sweetbread special to no end, but the revelatory experience of trotter goodness was easily the best thing I have tasted all year. Not for the faint of heart, or those who hate on super-rich decadence, I urge any fan of French countryside cuisine to hurry the hell up and get to South Philly. Tonight. Because the word is out, and people are getting on the BibouExpress.
Rendered perfectly beneath a crispy shell, the footmeat becomes smooth and creamy, with just a hint of toothsome support, and all negative space within is crammed to the gills with sweet foie. The play between the two textures is eye-closingly amazing, with the addition of terse French lentils underneath to add spice, bite, and a little bit of rustic charm. It doesn’t get any better than this.
Well OK, it did. I brought a bottle of 2005 Vieux Telegraphe to celebrate the occasion, which was worth celebrating. Decanting for 8 hours was necessary for the young lady full of 2005 power, she breathed new and crazy life through the entire meal. Of course you can’t get this bottle in the state system, but I suggest bringing any Cotes Du Rhone with you if you’re planning on eating this dish. If you can afford a Chateauneuf Du Pape, splurge and do it, as it’s the best-of-the-best from the region.
Everything I touched, tasted, and smelled at Bibou was pitch perfect and beautiful. I have found myself a new home when I can’t make it back to Provence, which these days , doesn’t seem to happen too often.
– Collin Flatt
Bibou, 1009 S. Eighth St., 215-965-8290, biboubyob.com
Agreed. Bibou was don’t-want-to-tell-people-because-you-won’t-be-able-to-get-a-table-but-can’t-help-yourself amazing. And the service was just what you’d want. Also: everybody stay away, please.
I second the response. Have been to Bibou twice since it opened and I cringe when I hear it mentioned in public – I want to keep it to myself. But alas, it is too good and that would be unfair. My only hope is that everyone else is at the shore and not paying attention? At least for a little bit?
Could you discuss the foie in the foot a little? The foie in mine was sponge-like with no succulence. I’ve never had anything like it before. My only theory is that the fat ran out leaving just a protein shell behind. It was rather disappointing.
But the foot itself was downright amazing–crispy, tender, gelatinous (in the best way), and rich as anything I’ve ever eaten.
went there for my birthday on friday and had an amazing meal. had the rabbit special (which also included foie) instead of the trotter but i will definitely be back to try the foot…