Over the weekend, Chef James LoCascio introduced Branch Creek Farms‘ 28 year old strain of heirloom tomatoes at Barclay Prime in a little thing they’re calling Tomato Time. An assortment of 80 pounds of Sicilian Plums, Green Zebra, Pineapple, Purple Cherokee, Sun Gold and Tiger Striped tomatoes are picked on Thursdays and immediately delivered to Barclay Prime, to be served each Thursday, Friday and Saturday. There, they are sliced and dressed to order, resulting in a truly luxurious experience.
And we don’t want to exaggerate, BUT: It is like tasting a tomato for the first time, in the glory of all that a tomato should taste like or could taste like. In their painterly tones of greens, golds, orange, reds, pinks and purples, the slices showcase the true substantial meat of the tomato, firm and fragrant, with seeds here and there. Chef LoCascio has chosen two floral extra virgin olive oils to dress the tomatoes, sprinkled with your choice of salts, including Hawaiian Lava, Alder Wood Smoke and Maldon salt from England. The earthiness of smoked salt in large colorful flakes highlights the texture and colors of the fruit, resulting in a sweet tomato flavor that is often destroyed in more common preparations. The flavors marry and dance on the palate, similar to a fine wine.
A California native, LoCascio has a unique understanding and respect in using fresh, local ingredients; and it shows in this love song to the heirloom tomato. He’s also supporting the local economy and environment by purchasing the tomatoes from Perkasie, PA. If you’re new to the Barclay, we also recommend you sample the dry aged sliders alongside all of this. Meat and tomatoes? Yes please!
Heirloom Tomato Tasting, $20, Barclay Prime, 237 S. 18th Street., 215-732-7560
Fortunately, you can purchase the ingredients for your own “Tomato Time” buffet in just about any neighborhood in the city.
You live in Northern Liberties? Gina at Urban Girls Produce sells some nice looking heirlooms every Wednesday afternoon. They’re everywhere you look at the Sunday Headhouse Market, and the Home Farm at the Wyck Historical House in Germantown offers a delicious spread on Fridays. The farmer there (full disclosure: I know the guy) sells Cherokee Purples, Black Krims, Green Zebras, Red Brandywines, and Moonglows for less than $4/lb.
Oh, but the people at Branch Creek Farms have been harvesting the best of the best for 28 years, having their male workers ejaculate upon the precious seeds. Once the new plants have sprouted the next year, the farmers whisper sweet nothings in their ears for 3 weeks before they are transferred from greenhouse to field. Truly a special tomato, well worth $20 for 10 slices. Really.