The Once-Over: Koo Zee Doo

koozeedoo

After a much-anticipated opening, we sat down and enjoyed a meal at the new Portuguese BYOB, Koo Zee Doo. The Northern Liberties restaurant serves their entrees and appetizers family style, allowing the table to enjoy favorite ingredients and to try new ones. Delicious and unique, the portions are just right, leaving you satiated but not stuffed.

We slurped on the Caldo Verde and Açorda de Beldroegas soups, both equally delicious in different ways. The Caldo Verde, true to tradition, is served on a hearty foundation of pureed potato broth with thin ribbons of collard greens, cooked perfectly so they maintain their textural integrity with each bite. What blew us away was the fried chorizo floating atop the bowl, so crunchy it was reminiscent of a tasty meat crouton. It may arguably be the best chorizo we’ve ever consumed. The broth in the Acorda de Beldroegas (aka The Bread Soup) is more delicate in comparison, but not lacking in flavor. Dotted with cheese and a spoonful of crusty bread and mushrooms, it’s topped with a bite of poached egg that was a burst of simple comfort in these colder days — not to be missed.

Also sampled was a chopped vegetable salad, dressed with a vinaigrette so good, we wish we had the recipe at home. It’s a red wine coriander vinaigrette which is poured atop cherry tomatoes, tender potatoes, crisp string beans and fava beans on a bed of refreshing watercress, creating a dynamic salad. The table loved the Sardinhas na Brasa, (Sardines and Roasted Red Pepper Salad), which was even savored by those who claim to dislike sardines. Served whole and browned, you de-bone the sardines yourself at the table (a demonstration which provided a nervous chuckle from the table and a second how-to from our server). The forkfuls of firm, white flesh are then scooped up with marinated peppers, resulting in a highly complimentary, fresh flavor.

Our main entrees, Arroz de Pato (Baked Rice With Duck) and Portuguese favorite Bife à Portuguesa (steak and eggs), were just as good. The Arroz de Pato is baked rice, flecked with crispy chorizo bits mixed with a braised, pan-seared duck. In the Bife à Portuguesa, slices of presunto (Portuguese prosciutto) are layered over the juicy and browned steak, plated with a fried egg, fried potato and broccoli rabe. The muted bitterness from the greens and the egg’s gooey yolk accent the salty thick potato rounds, highlighting the outer crust of the steak and it’s tender center.

We’re usually too stuffed to participate in dessert, but the portions throughout the meal were just right, so we chose the Chocolate “Salami” — which is not salami at all but a dark chocolate wafer with cookie pieces spotted throughout, tasting very much like a pirouette cookie.

When a restaurant aims to make you feel at home — and the vibe here, in the old space that was once Copper (Cu), is very homey indeed — good service is an important proponent to the experience. The waitstaff at Koo Zee Doo provided that. They were attentive, welcoming and and answered any questions without judgment or haste. Overall, we have nothing but praise for Koo Zee Doo and wish them luck. The only complaint you could say we had is the super bright lighting over the tables at the windows. Aside from such a persnickety observation, we delighted in our experience and encourage you to grab your favorite bottle and dining buddy and go pay them a visit.

Koo Zee Doo, 214 N. 2nd St., Philadelphia, PA 19123, 215-923-8080

1 Response to “The Once-Over: Koo Zee Doo”


  1. 1 Todd Oct 23rd, 2009 at 3:39 pm

    I think the address is wrong… 614 N. 2nd st not 214… that’s under the BF Bridge

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