This week’s issue of the New Yorker has a great piece about Brett Ottolenghi, proprietor of Artisanal Foods in Las Vegas and something of a huckster-to-the-stars of high-end dining. In Dana Goodyear‘s profile, we follow the twentysomething Ottolenghi — who’s been selling truffles and fine foods on the web since he was a kid — as he hawks his wares from chef to chef in the baller-status restaurants of Vegas, where truffles and cured meats can often sell like stock futures. Along the way, there’s a glimpse into the hive-mind, incredibly opulent food scene in Las Vegas, which itself is a pretty recent development. Nevertheless, there’s something about Ottolenghi that is charmingly old-world in the way he hustles. To paraphrase Jay-Z, Ottolenghi isn’t a businessman — he’s a business, man.